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Reflections: 2015 Le Désir

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2004 Le Désir

TASTING NOTES
2004 Le Désir shows a saturated, dark ruby core of color, with a very thin rim of garnet. The nose is very expressive, with exuberant red and black fruits, fresh botanical aromatics, and earth-driven, non-fruit aromas. Dried raspberry and dried red currant are joined by fresh evergreen, freshly split wood, wild rosemary, and green olive. The palate shows a complexity of red and black candied fruit, with satisfyingly bright herbal notes and hot stone minerality, framed by persistent tannins and elevated acidity. The balance of these elements is outstanding, driving to a very long finish. .
Tasting Date: September 2024
 

VIGNERON NOTES
"A classic Sonoma County vintage, the 2004 growing season had its beginnings in a chilly, rainy winter, which reinvigorated the energy in our Vérité micro-cru vineyards. Warmer weather arrived in early March, and above-average temperatures continued through spring, ushering an early budbreak and beautiful fruit set. The following summer months were warm but not too hot, delivering vigorous canopy growth, which pushed ideal phenolic ripeness in the fruit. Moderate heat spikes in August and early September advanced the season further, leading to an early vintage with sugars, acids, and tannins in terrific equilibrium. The resulting wines are just now entering maturity with grace, complexity, and superb balance, and will continue to repay patient cellaring. Harvest took place August 31 to September 17, 2004." 
Vigneron Pierre Seillan
 

WINE INFORMATION
BARREL AGING: 16 months in French oak, majority new
COMPOSITION: 49% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon
APPELLATIONS: Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Knights Valley


ACCLAIM
98 Points
"The first truly profound Le Désir... exhibits the deepest, most concentrated and multidimensional personality of the first five vintages of this cuvee. A dense plum/purple color is accompanied by notes of graphite, forest floor, unsmoked cigar tobacco, licorice and fruitcake. Full-bodied, layered and opulent, the 2004 can be drunk now or cellared for two more decades." 
Robert Parker, Jr.
Robert Parker Wine Advocate, June 2011
 

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BRAISED LAMB BELLY WITH FARRO, SEARED TURNIPS, AND RAMPS 

From the Seasons cookbook, co-authored by Vérité estate chef Justin Wangler 
Serves 8

FOR THE LAMB BELLY: 

  • 1 (3-Pound) Piece Lamb Belly, sinew removed 
  • 1 Teaspoon Kosher Salt 
  • 1 Teaspoon Freshly Ground Black Pepper 
  • 2 Tablespoons Minced Fresh Flat-Leaf Parsley 
  • 1 Teaspoon Minced Fresh Thyme, Plus 5 Sprigs 
  • 1 Tablespoon Minced Garlic, Plus 4 Cloves 
  • 2 Teaspoons Rice Oil, Plus 1 Tablespoon 
  • 1 Large Carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch-thick slices 
  • 1 Large Yellow Onion, cut into large dice 
  • 2 Bay Leaves 
  • 10 Black Peppercorns 
  • 3 Quarts Chicken Stock


FOR THE FARRO: 

  • 2 Tablespoons Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
  • 1 Cup Pearled Farro 
  • 3 Cups Lamb Braising Liquid 
  • 1 Bay Leaf, 1 Fresh Thyme Sprig, And 1 Clove Garlic, Tied In A Sachet 
  • 1 Pound English Peas In The Pod 
  • 1⁄4 Cup Rice Oil Or Other Neutral-Flavored Oil 
  • 3⁄4 Pound Morel Mushrooms, rinsed well, cut into rings, and dried overnight on paper towels 
  • 2 Shallots, minced 
  • 2 Tablespoons Chopped Fresh Thyme 
  • 1 Teaspoon Kosher Salt


FOR THE TURNIPS AND RAMPS: 

  • 2 Tablespoons Extra-Virgin Olive Oil 
  • 4 Baby Turnips With Stems And Leaves, halved lengthwise 
  • 8 Ramps, ends trimmed 
  • Kosher Salt 
  • Sel Gris, for finishing



TO SEASON THE LAMB BELLY:  
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Have ready one length of butcher’s twine about 2 feet long. Lay the lamb belly, skin side down, on a cutting board and pat dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle evenly with the salt and pepper, then spread the parsley, minced thyme, and minced garlic evenly on the top of the belly. Roll up the belly crosswise into a log. 

TO TRUSS THE LAMB BELLY:  
Truss the rolled belly by sliding the twine under one end of the belly and tying it around the belly in a knot, leaving a 2-inch piece to tie it off. Lay the remaining twine along the length of the rolled belly. Position your thumb on the twine about 1 inch from the first knot. Using your thumb to hold the string firmly, wrap the string around the rolled belly. Lift the corner of the twine at your thumb and pass the end of the string under the lifted piece to create a loop. Pull the string upward to tighten the hold. Continue wrapping and tying until the roast is completely tied. 

TO BRAISE THE LAMB BELLY:
Heat a roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat and add the 2 teaspoons oil. Sear the rolled belly on all sides until nicely browned. Transfer to a plate. 

With the pan still over medium-high heat, add the carrot, onion, whole garlic cloves, thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and peppercorns and cook, stirring occasionally for about 5 minutes until the vegetables are browned. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. 

Return the seared belly roll to the pan, cover the pan with aluminum foil, and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, until the lamb is tender. To test, poke a knife into the roll; it should slide in with little resistance. Remove from the oven, uncover, and let cool for about 2 hours, until room temperature. Re-cover and refrigerate the lamb roll in its braising liquid overnight or for up to 5 days. 

When ready to serve, skim the fat off the surface of the braising liquid. Pull the lamb roll out of the braising liquid. Strain the braising liquid and set aside 3 cups for cooking the farro.  

TO PREPARE THE FARRO:
In a small pot, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the farro and toast, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, until golden and fragrant. Add the reserved 3 cups braising liquid and sachet, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring just to a boil. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the farro is tender and liquid is mostly absorbed. 

Shell the peas; you should have about 1 cup. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, fill a medium bowl with water and ice. Add the peas to the boiling water and blanch for 1 1/2 minutes. Drain immediately and plunge the peas into the ice bath to halt the cooking. As soon as the peas are cold, remove from the ice water and spread on a paper towel to dry. 

In a large sauté pan, heat the rice oil over high heat. Add the morels and allow them to begin browning. Be sure not to stir too much. Add the shallots, thyme, and salt, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 2 minutes longer, until the shallots are slightly caramelized. Remove from the heat. Combine the farro, peas, and morels and toss and stir to mix well. Keep warm until ready to serve. You should have about 6 cups. 

TO SEAR THE LAMB BELLY SLICES:
Snip and remove the twine, then cut the roll into 1-inch-thick slices. Heat a large skillet over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, then add the slices and sear until the underside is deep golden brown. Pour off any additional fat. Flip and add enough of the braising liquid to come halfway up the sides of the slices. Bring to a simmer and then reduce heat to low. Simmer gently for 3 to 5 minutes. 

MEANWHILE, PREPARE THE TURNIPS AND RAMPS:
In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat for about 1 minute, just until it begins to smoke. At the same time, sprinkle the turnips and ramps with salt. When the oil is ready, place the turnips, cut side down, in the pan, with the leaves hanging off the rim of the pan. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden brown. Flip the turnips, including the leaves, and scoot them to one side of the pan. Add the ramps and cook, turning as needed, for about 1 minute, until golden brown on all sides. Transfer the turnips and ramps to a plate and reserve for garnish.  

TO ASSEMBLE AND SERVE:
Spoon the farro onto individual serving plates, dividing it evenly. Top with the lamb belly and drizzle with hot braising liquid. Sprinkle with the sel gris and garnish with the turnips and ramps.